Backwaters of
Kerala
| Kerala's
centuries-old, palm fringed backwaters stretch over 1900 km. Kerala lives along these
backwaters. They snake over the land, bestowing paddy fields with good harvests, and
provide the whole village with drinking water and other facilities. The backwaters refer
to the large inland lakes of Kerala. Today these backwaters act as vital water ways for
the transport of goods, people and produce. They are often the only link between remote,
isolated villages and crowded towns. Its an incredible experience to float on these
soothing waters in a country craft to absorb this unusual representation of Kerala. |
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Alumkadavu
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Gliding along the calm and serene
backwaters, flanked by green leaves and palms, seeing a rural Kerala preserved through the
ages and completely hidden from the road is an enchanting experience to any visitor, more
so, while sailing in a slow-moving, spacious Kettuvallam. Alumkadavu, a quiet spot in the town
of Karunagapally, hardly 23 km north of Quilon (travel time: 30 min), has become a hot
point of Kettuvallam building. |
| These huge, long and tapering
barges, with a portion
covered with bamboo and coir, serving as a rest room and kitchen for the
crew, were traditionally used to cargo tons of goods, across kingdoms. A familiar
sight on the waters, these vessels are built without the use of nails. Planks of
jackwood are joined together with coir rope and coated with a caustic black resin made
from boiled cashew kernels. With careful maintenance, they last for generations. |
Today, widely and appropriately
called houseboats, they carry furnished bedrooms, modern toilets, cozy living rooms, a kitchen
and even a balcony for angling. Some are powered by a 40 HP engine. At Alumkadavu, you can
even find a floating conference hall, designed to seat 35, with a dais and a sophisticated
public address system. Not very far from the capital city of Trivandrum
(Thiruvananthapuram), is the Veli - Akkulam lagoon with a delightful waterfront park
growing increasingly popular among the natives and tourists alike.
| Only a narrow sandbar
separates the lagoon from the sea. You can opt for rides in motor-driven safari launches,
power boats, pedal boats or row boats. Kayaks and hovercraft attract the brave-hearted. A
floating bridge and a floating restaurant add to the overall excitement. The eastern end
of the lake is flanked by two scenic hillocks coming through as a perfect hiking ground. |
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Calicut
To the north of
Kerala, the cool
backwaters of Calicut (Kozhikode), with a bewitching beauty
of its own, lie waiting to be discovered. North east of the city, Elathur offers an ideal jump-off base into the Canoly
Canal - a name taken after its British builder and administrator. The canal links itself
to the Kallai river which unhurriedly threads through the city and offers its shores to
Calicut’s historic timber trade. |
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The produce of which
is believed to have even adorned the courts of King Solomon and Queen Sheba a few
millennia ago. Further south, lies Kadalundi, with its charming bird
sanctuary - haven to an amazing assortment of delightful water birds.
Another river of the region, Korapuzha, is
fast gaining popularity as the venue of the water sports festival, the Korapuzha
Jalotsavam, staged every August. |
Kumarakom
| On the shores of the enchanting
Vembanad lake, 14 kilometers from Kottayam (travel time: 20 min), lies Kumarakom in its
small-town hush. Redolent of restful ease. A boat ride
into the countryside offers a close look into an engaging rustic life. Skiff-fishermen
launching their cockleshell boats. Large flotillas of ducks waddling down to the water
from thatched houses on the banks. Women, neck-deep in water, with their waist-length hair
heaped in a crown, searching for fish with their feet. |
| At Kumarakom, you could sail the
backwaters in rented houseboats, which are poled by local oarsmen and are simply furnished
with a living room, a bedroom and bath, together with a raised central platform creating a
private sit-out for the passengers. Sections of the curved roof of wood or plaited palm
open out to provide shade and allow uninterrupted views. Boat trains, formed by joining
two or more houseboats together make for a convenient mode of sightseeing when the
company is large. You could
even take a canoe out into the quiet lagoons and spend time angling. Make sure you sample
Karimeen and fresh toddy, the favorite fresh-water food and the local wine. |
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This is an ideal
place for backwater cruises. A beautiful backwater spot accessible from Kumarakom is
Alleppey. A 14 acre bird sanctuary is situated on the eastern banks of the Vembanad Lake.
The sanctuary adds to the natural beauty of Kumarakom. Birds (waterfowl, water ducks,
cuckoos, wild ducks etc.) nest and spend happy summers here. Birds like Siberian Storks
migrate here every year. The sanctuary is open from 10 am to 6 pm. |
Alleppey -
Kuttanad
| The sweeping network of
canals honey-combing, the town of Alleppey (Alappuzha) has earned for the place its sobriquet -
"The Venice of the East." Small, low-slung country boats are the taxis of this
waterland. It is a heart-warming sight to see them carry a motley assemblage of cycles,
goats, fisherwomen with cane baskets, school children, toddy-tappers with their knives and
pots, duennas in white with gold earrings, Syrian Christian priests and a bare-chested
boatman. |
| Do not miss out on a ride into
Kuttanad through shimmering, green paddy fields and tail-wagging, head-bobbing groups of
ducks. Coir-workers too present an interesting sight as they soak coconut
fiber in
pools, beat them out and weave the tough brown strands into long ropes on spindles
stretched between endless coconut trees.
Alleppey becomes the
cynosure of the eyes of the world in August - September, every year, as it plays host to
the celebrated Snake Boat Races, a water regatta, unique to Kerala. |
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| Cochin Come into Cochin (Kochi), Queen of the
Arabian Sea, believed to be the finest natural harbour in the world. With ferry rides
commanding its breathtaking view, cruise around man-made islands, with lush green lawns
sloping down to the water's edge. |
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Cochin is the oldest European
settlement in India, recording a history of visitors who came, saw and stayed for hundreds
of years. Chinese, Arab, Jewish, British, French and Portuguese habits are
contained within its environment.
Giant Chinese fishing nets that
billow from massive teak and bamboo poles dot the entrance to the harbour. Silhouetted
against the setting sun, they present a magnificent sight at the waterfront.
Bolghatty Palace is
situated in a narrow, palm-fringed island,
easily accessible from the mainland. The palace
was built by the Dutch in 1744. Later, it became the seat of the British Resident of
Cochin and today this has been converted into a hotel run by the KTDC. The palace has a
golf course on its grounds.
Kollam
The charming old port city of
Quilon (Kollam) on the banks of the picturesque Ashtamudi Lake is now known more as the
center of the cashew industry. Traces of a once prosperous trade with China are still seen in
the form of Chinese fishing nets, huge Chinese water pots, blue and white porcelain and
sampan-like boats.
Quilon is an inviting gateway to
Kerala's backwaters. For an interesting backwater experience, take the regular ferry to
Alleppey, a rigorous ride, lasting more than 8 hours. As the old ferry putters from one
village on the waterfront to another, you are treated to a full range of lives and
activities and some of the most beautiful scenery. For the less intrepid,
shorter cruises can be made in the larger comforts of the houseboats with idyllic villages
such as Alumkadavu as your launch base.
The nearest airport, Trivandrum, is
71 kms. away. It takes fractionally over an hour to get to Quilon by road or rail from
Trivandrum.
Veli-Akkulam
Within hailing distance from the
capital city of Trivandrum, is the Veli - Akkulam lagoon, with a delightful
waterfront park growing increasingly popular among the natives and tourists alike. Only a
narrow sandbar separates the lagoon from the sea. You can opt for rides in motor-driven
safari launches, power boats, pedal boats or row boats. A floating bridge and a floating
restaurant add to the overall excitement. The eastern end of the lake is flanked by two
scenic hillocks coming through as a perfect hiking ground.
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