Thanjavur:
Nearly a thousand years ago, around the 11th
century, Thanjavur was the capital of the powerful Chola dynasty,
whose empire extended beyond South India and Sri Lanka to the
kingdoms of South-East Asia. The Chola kings used their wealth to
encourage the growth of arts and built innumerable temples and
shrines to ornament their lands. Thanjavur today has 93 temples, and
not all were built during the Chola period. The splendid
Brahadeeswarar temple dedicated to Shiva bears witness to the glory
of the Cholan kingdom, in its architecture, sculptures and
paintings.
The magnificent granite Srivimana or pyramidal
tower over the main sanctum is 66.5 metres tall and is even
today awe-inspiring. The monolithic granite block that tops the
tower weighs 81.3 tons and was installed by means of a ramp that
started at a village 6 km away. Guarding the temple is an enormous
figure of Nandi, the bull mount of Shiva, carved out of a monolithic
block of black granite, 6 m long. Within the temple and along its
gateways and shrines are other superb examples of stone carving.
Beautifully sculpted panels with mythological scenes, like Parvathi's
wedding, decorate the walls. Fine figures carved with skill, decorate
the outer structure.
Along the vestibule surrounding the sanctum are
panels of carved dancers, displaying 81 Bharatanatyam poses, the
first known representation of South Indian classical dance. Below
these panels are marvellous Chola frescoes executed in the elegant
Ajanta style that have been discovered and uncovered only in recent
times, as murals of a later period obscured them. This temple is
unique in more ways than one. Inscribed on its walls, there is a
complete record of how the temple was built, gifts donated by the
royal family, detailed arrangements for its maintenance, even the
amount granted to specific shepherds to enable them to provide
clarified butter for the temple lamps.
A little museum in the temple courtyard has interesting
exhibits of the Chola period. It is, however, at the main art
gallery, situated in the palace built by the later Nayak and Maratha
kings that one finds a fine collection of Chola bronzes of elegant
Gods and Goddesses and of the famous Nataraja or dancing Shiva.
The palace is a fascinating place with its
immense corridors, an acoustically perfect hall of music, palace
towers and armoury. The Saraswati Mahal library instituted by the
Maratha king, Serfoji, is also located in the palace with its
collection of over 30,000 manuscripts in palm leaf and paper, in
Indian and European languages. Thanjavur still retains its interest
in the arts, and in houses that line the maze of little lanes of the
old town, live artisans who painstakingly work on elegant veena's,
Thanjavur plates of brass, inlaid with copper and silver, and
beautiful paintings of Gods and Goddesses, often done on glass and
decorated with semi-precious stones and gold foil.
Dotting the beautiful countryside around
Thanjavur are other little temple towns - Thirukandiyur (10 km) with
its intricately sculpted temples, Kumbakonam (36 km) and Gangaikonda
Cholapuram (71 km) with a temple built by Rajendra Chola to
commemorate his victories, Darasuram (41 km), Thirubuvanam (44 km)
and Poompuhar (81 km).
The home town of the musical trinity Thiagaraja,
Muthuswami Dikshithar and Shyama Sastri is Thiruvarur, 67 km away. A
music festival is conducted every year in January at Thiruvaiyaru in
honour of Saint Thiagaraja whose samadhi is located here.
"Tanjore is the Rice Bowl of Tamil Nadu"
Shopping:
Copper plates, inlaid with brass and silver, bronze images from
Swamimalai (32 km), musical instruments, traditional wood carvings,
pith models and bell metal lamps are available at the Government
Emporium, Poompuhar and other shops in the Gandhi Road Bazaar.
Season to Visit:
October to March.
How to get there:
The nearest airport is Trichy. Indian Airlines has direct daily
flights to Chennai, Madurai, Trivandrum and Colombo. It is also
connected by road to other towns in the state. Trichy is
54 km. from
Thanjavur).
Where to stay:
Hotel Tamil Nadu (TTDC) and a number of economy class hotels.
Tourist information:
Tourist Information Centre,
Hotel Tamil Nadu Complex,
Gandhi Road, Tanjore.